Wednesday, March 07, 2007

wow feels so good to be back in the water ... yesterday my paddling felt nice + strong as i went out for the 1st time, this morning we made POPS by 8:30 and had a great fun sesh there - a building swell w/ some inconsistent size but some very consistent size from the nice local dudes that were out there w/ us. jimmy came out to join us + welcome me back towards the end of our sesh. he said he was at canoes thinking we left already but then he saw someone out at pops get a crazy long ride + realized dat person was so tall must be tom-A-hawk! jimmy said a few things w/ 1 of my boyz and when i asked if he knew him he said 'no, but i will...' well, steve + i took our last waves in pretty soon after that, and my 2 fave local bros took theirs in right behind us! i had a nice shower chat w/ the 'big arms + shoulders' guy - he's da 1 called the conditions 'inconsistent' ... after a foster's oilcan + a schmoke we made TheBus jus in time to hit IRIFUNE for lunch! surf nap rocked da rest of da afternoon ... mmmzzzz...

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