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swell coming up today but not quite here yet - fluffy, mushy muffin tops starting to rise up out da water ... u kno wot? gimme da whole muffin! but we went out anyway this a.m. - ok, crowded sesh @ CANOES w/ stevie getting top honors on one majestic ride, me stayin out for just one more, didn't disappoint w/ a 007 drop + carve down a nice steep face - right in front of da best local surfer out there ... in my new local boy boardshorts! [btw we are now officially a quiksilver household]
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