jus back from 2nd day out on freak swell 06 - ! - not quite as much water movin around out there but still getting da big 20-minute set - first 1/2 hour was perfect w/ 3 ace lefts for tom-A-hawk [canoes is now a left ??? o wot?] - then da crowd hit and the new sport became cute local boy watching cuz even if you got one there was no where 2 go cuz all da people ... had one NICE break buddy at the end of da sesh: BIG all around, nice + dark w/ hawaiian tattoos on those big shoulders + arms, lookin super cute in a baseball cap, not hangin out so much w/ da rowdy local group on the right side ... cut me off real close on one ride [was happy to give way], then he got out of da way for my last ride - another creamy left, right in da curl, 4 tom-A-hawk ! yea boi !!!