Sunday, December 10, 2006


so like i mentioned - the irony is that i'm getting better wireless here at the beach house, on the north shore, in the country - than i'm getting at the condo in waikiki, like i want to be sitting around 'blogging while i'm here, but i'll try ... the highlights: fun bonfire w/ nice local boys friday night w/ a full 'good game' round of handshake introductions, bodysurfing waimea yesterday, pipe masters contest down the beach today - jamie o'brien cruized right by us on the way to + from his heat - so close i could have reached out + grabbed one of his love handles! [the source of his powers?] that started a regular parade of surf rock stars marching past us - slater paused right in front of us to put on his rash guard then hit the water w/ a superstar standing shred before he started to paddle, tom-a-hawk's new crush mick fanning cruised by a couple times before + after his heat [uncle kenzen tells me word is he likes to get drunk, get naked, and show off his other talent], surf hero of the people rob machado came by smiling, local blondie nate carroll cruised thru workin da crowd, never saw andy irons up close but saw him catch a few out there ... in their heat slater + o'brien were the ultimate showmen w/ simultaneous takeoffs: first slater taking pipe [left] + jamie going backdoor [right], then coming back w/ o'brien going right + slater going left. mick was sportin some hot b+w psycho stripe new wave board shorts, but i noticed that bruno santos, the surfer from brazil in his heat [not this guy, but - WOOF anyway] committed the faux pas of wearing the same shorts - hav to say that bruno filled out the seat of his trunks a little better tho...

in the absence of surf mom dirkdirkdirk, who just moved back to da mainland, we have all stepped up admirably in the cooking department - i even made dinner for the 4 of us on thursday nite - my [famous] linguini w/ clams. mc kicked it in yesterday incl. fresh bread - several times a day! Stevie's preparing the traditional surf club beach house pork tenderloin as i write ... after narrowly avoiding being sucked into a portal to another dimension by our surprise visitor - the ethno-botanist from maui - on friday night, i'm happy to report to jake, who unfortunately had to leave yesterday, that i've had a clear view of my chips all weekend.

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