Sunday, December 31, 2006


isolated new-year's firecrackers, screamers + sparklers have been goin off in the street since yesterday, sure to build gradually up to a big crescendo of blazing noise as the night progresses...

followed through on getting out to pops early wednesday morning: surfed THREE hours for same thing as xmas eve: staked out the peak on long waits for ok waves, till there were just 3 or 4 of us old-timers out there, surfing between crowd shifts.

thursday, while poor steve had to work downtown all day, jimmy + conrad took all our boards + me in jimmy's new surfmobile ['jimmy defines the minivan - the minivan does not define jimmy'] to da west side, for steak plate at sunny's roadside steak plate truck in waianae, + big waves - not as big as the 40-footers on the north shore that day, and breaking just right to be manageable at the spot conrad picked - rest camp, in pokai bay, a military recreation area beach where you have to show i.d. to enter. still a very mixed crowd w/ some serious old time wesside kannaks boomin down the biggest peaks! actually managed to catch a few nice rides in the crowd out there - bigger waves that start w/ a gentle slope down their broad faces, a fun stage to carve a soul turn left then snap back around for a nice accelerated slide to the right across the peel ... tom-A-hawk's 1st wesside waves!!! going back for a new year's surf w/ conrad tomorrow! thursday night the three of us met up w/ stevie and jake took us all out for dinner dockside at the yacht club, where he paddles outrigger - mahalo jake! was very festive, w/ holiday lights on the boats reflecting in the water...

friday morning steve had to work again, but left the condo w/ his board by 8:30, proclaiming I GET TO HAVE FUN TOO. we passed each other in the street as he came in and i went out, for a rainy session w/ jake + jimmy that started great [tom-A-hawk was workin the right] but soon got overcrowded... jake still managed to get a few pics w/ his fun xmas present - a new gopro digital hero sports camera...

yesterday [saturday] jimmy, jake, conrad, stevie + me met up for the last traditional saturday morning surfclub event of the year - an expedition to diamond head [in the water by 10!]: which was windy, yes; choppy, yes; hard work constantly paddling against the current and the wind chop back into the lineup, yes - but we all still got rides. jake is really quite the surfer, and he had his new camera with him again, which the cute blondie shortboarder thought was pretty cool ... tom-A-hawk got a couple of his signature 007 late takeoffs / steep drop / bottom turns, but don't expect any jake pics - tom-A-hawk is just too fast. after that workout/battle we were all almost as RAVENOUS as conrad so we got takeout food, beer + dessert from south shore grill / diamond head market + grill, had lunch under the pergolas at queen's beach, where we were clearly being cruized by a nice beefy local loner ... and it really doesn't get much better than that, 'sCrunGE!' friends ...

went to see 'dreamgirls' at ward w/ jake last nite, resting up today for the big new year's eve fireworks party at alan's place up on the slopes of kapalama heights in kalihi valley, which is guaranteed to be going OFF w/ countless household fireworks displays, and views of the big town displays on shore plus lots, and lots, of boys. party of the year if you ask me.

HAU'OLI MAKAHIKI HOUUUUUUUU !!!!!!!!!!!!

Saturday, December 30, 2006

gay surf club conquers - wot else? - windy, choppy diamond head 2day: conrad, jimmy, jake, stevie + me

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Friday, December 29, 2006

o + tom-A-hawk surfed wesside 4 da 1st time 2day [pokai bay / rest camp] ... !

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got em ! we coming maui jan 7 @ 9am - jan 9 @ 8pm ... renting a car - c u soon !

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Wednesday, December 27, 2006

surfed four hours xmas eve day ... steve + i went out to canoes late a.m. - super crowded, not much for waves, steve went in after an hour or so. i stayed, decided to just try to enjoy the social aspect of sitting in the lineup, which at canoes for real can be most of the fun. but that didn't keep it from getting old after a while: tom-A-hawk wanted some waves!

still had lots of energy so i paddled past the sand barge out to pops. funny mixed group out there too, all crowding the peak as usual, but i had already practiced patience so i hung out, got to know the different characters out there, including the local dad + his young adult daughter [who was giving some euro-kook tourist stink eye for boxing in her ride right when i got there]. i watched and waited, staying out of the way, giving away waves left + right like xmas presents. got to know the set rhythm + when the bigger waves were coming through as one by one the crowd thinned out until finally, it was just me and the dad + daughter.

we had all been out there so long that as the other folks left it seemed like we figured out that the three of us were actually surfing in pretty well with each other, and spent some nice family time enjoying it, taking turns going for waves, getting some, not getting others. by the time the surf school and some other tourists showed up i had finally gotten comfortable enough to out-paddle another surfer and maneuver into a late takeoff, which i nabbed for my final satisfying ride: four hours well-spent - merry xmas tom-A-hawk!

was just sundazed and doped-up enough on endorphins to make xmas eve dinner at ted + carl's that night a lot of fun, what w/ the red wine, their french bulldog rupert humping the little nephew every chance he got + the big southern-boy cousins belting out carols at the piano ... steve + i kept saying we were gonna go for a xmas day surf but ended up spending the day in bed watching cowboy movies on amc before a surfclub xmas dinner at kurty's place downtown - w/ conrad from london, who's here through the new year! we are lucky to have some great friends here in hawai'i.

so now it's that awesome week between xmas + new year - a full holiday week! still haven't gone surfing - we needed two days off ... in a row. steve actually worked a little this morning; i hauled the recycling, got an americano and watched the waves at queens from a bench on shore [where some random guy asked me if i knew where to get any pot and i chatted w/ a nice retired french-canadian grandma - ah, waikiki]. jimmy keeps talking about having us over to surf hawaii kai side: some secret new spot he's just discovered - 'like queens w/ no one else there' - or the aina haina death march ... but we're still just planning to get out to pops as early as we can tomorrow a.m.

surf, tom-A-hawk ! [i've started practicing my cross-step again!]

Sunday, December 24, 2006

a warm island greeting of peace + aloha ... it actually feels like xmas eve here in waikiki !

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Saturday, December 23, 2006

B-O-D 4 me ...

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Friday, December 22, 2006

tricky, 'iffy' tasman sea shadow swell not quite here yet, hopefully back up to 3 foot hawaiian by tomorrow - paddled out under a rainbow this morning to mostly flat, mostly crowded, kind of pilau waters ... not much waves, one ok set every 20 minutes, but lots of aloha @ pops, was mainly talk story: w/ one guy who had rigged up an electric motor on his board - 'like a prius' said one rell sunn type local gal - or the turtle steve saw 2 times, or the dolphins we all oohed and awed over as they schooled and jumped out about a hundred yards or so ... rell thought they showed up because they were interested in the guy's motorized board + i think she's right - they had to show off back! but we both got waves, even if some were funny inside wahine waves ... going to see guy cruz @ tapa's tonight: 7-10 no be late ! [but not until stevie cooks up a mess o chicken ... ! mmm.]
actually took the day off, rested up, recovered - swear qi gong worked nearly miraculous healing powers on me today, now we're well fed on stevie's chili rice surfer food [w/ fresh local green onions], ready for a good night's sleep, stoked for the new bUmp comin in to town tomorrow a.m. ... wanted to see the new 007 film for almost a month, but i made us wait until we got to hawai'i - finally got out to see it last night [so good - brutally good] for an ideal date w/ stevie at the full local ward theaters scene followed by wine wednesday for tom-A-hawk w/ sierras for stevie + garlic fries for all at big city diner next door, where asking for the salt + pepper was cause for aloha ... chillin w/ westerns on tv tonight is the perfect wrap-up to the perfect surfbreak - so no pau hana sesh but stevie sez there was no 2-4 goin on out there today anyway anyhow ... aloha
[editor's note: it might do at this time to remind my gentle readers that all my posts are listed here at central time, but are actually made on hawaiian time; which, this time of year, is central time minus four hours ...]

Thursday, December 21, 2006

western nite on tcm ['the westerner' w/ gary cooper, from 1940] ...

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From: kung > Defo! KC is in town. And it's snowing.

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aloha + best wishes for a happy + festive winter solstice to you! after getting kind of beat up by the [great!] surf the last few days [inside right forearm + knuckles bruised on one side, smallkine coral scratch on the left palm, pulled neck muscle from taking a wave on the side of the head, sore knee from an awkward wipeout], we're taking the day off [so far - i just read that s shore is knee to shoulder high + good! ok we might go out for pau hana] steve went to do some quick work for surf bud kurt, baby + me just did our qi gong ... and speaking of the wonders of baby: i signed up for a month of the universal wireless that's available in waikiki and now, for about a dollar a day, i'm getting four-bar internet through the mac, including web radio on the sleek new speakers we got from kung. we can turn on live radio from kexp in seattle for fresh, commercial-free tunes whenever we want! like kdogg replied when i texted him about it - fuckin rad! just when you think hawai'i can't get any better. [now if i can just convince the current to offer a 32k alternative to their 128k mp3 stream like kexp does ... i've tried to tune in the 128k but it keeps stalling, same w/ radio k - ;p - but kexp's 32k works + sounds great - and it's kind of perfect to be listening to a west coast station now that we've gone all pacific on ya ... ]
dreamt i disguised myself as a calf named butternut as a wake-up prank on owen wilson ...

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Wednesday, December 20, 2006

back out to canoes this morning - even though pops was lookin a little better: more size, more peel - because my boyfriend said so. but there is something old-school + classic about a canoes sesh, and the bigger crowd makes for more cute boys! today's break buddy was a haole chunkster with a nice dark tan, dark hair, nice big chest + shoulders and a full-on spare tire - sure was fun to watch that chunky booty pump while he was workin for da wave ... ! and work it he did, over + over, without really catching anything, until i had decided that fo' real, dis my las wave - and ho, we're goin for it together, him on my left, goin for da left. we both got it + rode in together - break brothers! - him taking it in just far enough in front of me to jump off his board with a flip into the water for me, a show-off move that probably made his musclemonster buddy, who did not catch da wave, a little jealous. swell has come down a bit more, but still something to ride and snn sez there's a new minor s swell arriving on friday - a surprise xmas present to da south shore ... !

Tuesday, December 19, 2006

hot pic o jb gomes n nov 'heavywater' mag - 2 bad sam sez he's such a dick ... probly gonna beat me up jus 4 bloggin dat.

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jus back from 2nd day out on freak swell 06 - ! - not quite as much water movin around out there but still getting da big 20-minute set - first 1/2 hour was perfect w/ 3 ace lefts for tom-A-hawk [canoes is now a left ??? o wot?] - then da crowd hit and the new sport became cute local boy watching cuz even if you got one there was no where 2 go cuz all da people ... had one NICE break buddy at the end of da sesh: BIG all around, nice + dark w/ hawaiian tattoos on those big shoulders + arms, lookin super cute in a baseball cap, not hangin out so much w/ da rowdy local group on the right side ... cut me off real close on one ride [was happy to give way], then he got out of da way for my last ride - another creamy left, right in da curl, 4 tom-A-hawk ! yea boi !!!
freak swell hits waikiki with big waves rolling in lines stretching from publics to the royal hawaiian! went out this morning for what seemed like the biggest part of the day, paddled outside canoes to see how it was working ... had to paddle out farther + farther to get over the huge hills of water coming in without being buried by them, almost out to where they moved the sand replenishment project barge to keep it out of the waves, and finally decided to skip canoes and its seasoned old-timers to check out the crowd at pops, which from our perspective was looking more managable. it was, but the waves were still plenty big - and the crowd was a little more mixed but there were still lots of good surfers out there. victory at sea came in the form of steve and me actually attempting a few takeoffs ... with a couple spectacular wipeouts! i zeroed in on a local buff baldy as my Break Buddy. [Break Buddy = a fellow surfer who's a little better than you - and CUTE! hanging out near him helps you figure out where to put yourself on the break for waves that match your skills. if you actually catch the same wave with him he becomes your Break Brother. i'm sure some guys even take it to the next level and become Break Boyfriends ... but i'm sure i wouldn't know anything about that] following his lead i was finally able to catch one sweet long right! combined with steve's fine left yesterday it's shaping up to be an epic week!

Sunday, December 17, 2006




swell coming up today but not quite here yet - fluffy, mushy muffin tops starting to rise up out da water ... u kno wot? gimme da whole muffin! but we went out anyway this a.m. - ok, crowded sesh @ CANOES w/ stevie getting top honors on one majestic ride, me stayin out for just one more, didn't disappoint w/ a 007 drop + carve down a nice steep face - right in front of da best local surfer out there ... in my new local boy boardshorts! [btw we are now officially a quiksilver household]
fujiya + miyagi on KEXP ...

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From: kdogg > Aloha fROM kdog & kung in da castro!

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Saturday, December 16, 2006

failed mo'blog txt from yesterday sent 12:08 p.m. HST >

jus pau POPS - windy,
junky w/ 2 much surf
school donkeys
gettin pushed in2 da
good waves ... it's
over now
tom-A-hawk

watching >choke< holiday programming tonite [incl. 'elf' + 'mean girls'], resting up for freak south swell supposed to be coming up tomorrow, lasting all week! kenzen reports they're saying biggest out-of-season south swell in december for 20 years! UI!

Thursday, December 14, 2006

'family business' from danny's rap mix - "dis is 4 da family dat can't b w/ us" ...

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out to POPS for da 1st time yesterday - fun waves, some nice technical rides by tom-A-hawk; and, two times, when i was alone, came my 'aumakua' da sea turtle, up to say welcome back...

Wednesday, December 13, 2006

doves flyin thru sunset waikiki outside r window w/ doves 'b+w town' on da itunes ...

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Monday, December 11, 2006

[we missed it but we're thinkin if we party w/ him later we still might get a chance 2 check it out ... ]

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mick got a 10.0 !

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Sunday, December 10, 2006


so like i mentioned - the irony is that i'm getting better wireless here at the beach house, on the north shore, in the country - than i'm getting at the condo in waikiki, like i want to be sitting around 'blogging while i'm here, but i'll try ... the highlights: fun bonfire w/ nice local boys friday night w/ a full 'good game' round of handshake introductions, bodysurfing waimea yesterday, pipe masters contest down the beach today - jamie o'brien cruized right by us on the way to + from his heat - so close i could have reached out + grabbed one of his love handles! [the source of his powers?] that started a regular parade of surf rock stars marching past us - slater paused right in front of us to put on his rash guard then hit the water w/ a superstar standing shred before he started to paddle, tom-a-hawk's new crush mick fanning cruised by a couple times before + after his heat [uncle kenzen tells me word is he likes to get drunk, get naked, and show off his other talent], surf hero of the people rob machado came by smiling, local blondie nate carroll cruised thru workin da crowd, never saw andy irons up close but saw him catch a few out there ... in their heat slater + o'brien were the ultimate showmen w/ simultaneous takeoffs: first slater taking pipe [left] + jamie going backdoor [right], then coming back w/ o'brien going right + slater going left. mick was sportin some hot b+w psycho stripe new wave board shorts, but i noticed that bruno santos, the surfer from brazil in his heat [not this guy, but - WOOF anyway] committed the faux pas of wearing the same shorts - hav to say that bruno filled out the seat of his trunks a little better tho...

in the absence of surf mom dirkdirkdirk, who just moved back to da mainland, we have all stepped up admirably in the cooking department - i even made dinner for the 4 of us on thursday nite - my [famous] linguini w/ clams. mc kicked it in yesterday incl. fresh bread - several times a day! Stevie's preparing the traditional surf club beach house pork tenderloin as i write ... after narrowly avoiding being sucked into a portal to another dimension by our surprise visitor - the ethno-botanist from maui - on friday night, i'm happy to report to jake, who unfortunately had to leave yesterday, that i've had a clear view of my chips all weekend.

Friday, December 08, 2006

of course i'm getting better wireless here on the north shore...

Thursday, December 07, 2006

[wanted to make sure i saw one last show in minneapolis before we left - i saw 4 ... i work well w/ a deadline. silversun pickups were the perfect band to see at the entry w/ my uptown yw rocker girl co-worker kimberland, and my plan for it to be my last big show would have worked perfectly if it hadn't been for the noxious fumes someone near us kept emitting - shame on you whoever you are ... then i heard that a local band i'd been wanting to hear for 3 years on the basis of their name alone - coach said not to - were playing at a new venue i'd been wanting to check out since lori barbero told us to - the nomad world pub (in the old 5 corners saloon building on the west bank) the day after thanksgiving. liked the venue, but the coach said not to girls should have listened to coach. good thing the band that opened for silversun pickups - solid gold - were headlining and they have a decent sound so that saved face for me since i brought my sis + nephew along ... i had known for weeks that brazilian girls were coming to the fine line and i kept on telling myself i wasn't gonna go even though i knew i'd end up going ... kung called the night of the show all excited about devotchka, who were playing a few days later, and since i have no interest in that band i talked him into going to the brazilian girls show that night - we went w/ danny + alana and ended up partying w/ the band in a south minneapolis basement until almost four a.m. w/ one of our party waking up on the tour bus in chicago. pussy pussy pussy! ... took me a couple days to recover and i thought i'd had my fill until i heard about the big doomtree blowout (incl. p.o.s. !) at 1st ave last saturday night. it was so obviously the big deal of the season that i bought 4 tickets from fifth element before i even know who i was going to take. sold out show w/ a fully hyped b-boy/girl break @ intermission was the perfect final send-off for tom-a-hawk (plus it allowed kim + me to redeem our 1st ave experience - fragrance free!) ... but that didn't stop me from running through the hot party crowds on frigid 1st avenue after the show for a few final drinks w/ kung as he finished up his shift @ sawatdee (where they were just zipping up a takeout order for g'n'r ! rock'n'roll !!!), then to an art department dance after hours in the warehouse district that would have been quite lame if it hadn't been for the drunk skinny gay boy dancing around in his jockstrap ... i know i should be finished but i can't let go until i also mention that i heard solid gold again, live on the current's sunday night local show, the night before we left ... like i said, i work well w/ a deadline.]

when dec arrives n da islands take time 2 reflect on winter n paradise + remember dat n many parts o da mainland is snowing

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2nd warm-up sesh out @ canoes this morning ... not quite as good as yesterday + a few more dangerous kooks but plenty cute boys - still good fun!

amazing to make the pacific passage, the transition from living in the middle of a continent to living in the middle of the ocean ... just like when i flew out this spring, i crossed from land to sea over san francisco: last time at a relatively low altitude right over the city w/ an incredible full color view of golden gate park and the big red bridge; this time impossibly high and to the north, with a view like the space shuttle, of the sacramento river emptying into the bay, marin, the lighthouse on the tip of point reyes, the east bay w/ thin fog in the berkeley hills and, connected by wire-thin bridges and looking like the master computer chip in the center of an endless organic circuit board, the city. it is bio-electro-magnetic to me that place, + i could feel it connecting to my nervous system like a wireless signal, lighting up my cells, realigning my molecules, drawing me back.

Wednesday, December 06, 2006

watchin 'da hulk' ... so darn good.

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Tuesday, December 05, 2006

jus pau 1 nice 1st sesh out @ canoes - surftrack: walker kong's 'televisions' ... + i had 1 break brother =>

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and tom-A-hawk is gettin wireless in da condo, bros ...

Monday, December 04, 2006

full moon over waikiki ... hawai'i aloha.

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just took my seat on my trusty ol' dc-10 ... c u in honolulu !

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Saturday, December 02, 2006

from "peace machine" in da uptown neighborhood news - "the gift of december's darkness: days getting shorter. sit on the couch in the dark and just sit there. accept yourself. not available in stores."

Friday, December 01, 2006

dang jus got da doomtree materials out: postcards, stickers, tkts ... wish i showed u guyz

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hey i'm @ s side 11th + lasalle + i'm a real easy pickup

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omg p.o.s. / doomtree @ 1st ave 2morrow nite ! jus got 4 tkts !!!

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